Monday, March 12, 2012

New Air


As the dust from two months of South American travel settles, and I exhaustively hang up my backpack, I can finally breathe in the air of the city that charmed me to this region of the world in the first place…

Buenos Aires.

Good Airs.

Fair Winds.

It´s a city securing its membership in the elite ¨Great Cosmopolitan Cities of the World¨ club. New York and London, two ladies that occupy a large portion of my heart, should be thrilled to welcome this new Latin cohort. And, maybe take some notes.

Since arriving here three weeks ago I have naturally covered all emotional ground, tackling daily internal/external dialogue such as:

  • What are you doing here, Holly?! Go home. Get a proper job. Stop mucking about (British Holly, obviously.)
  • Holly, your Spanish is poor, you´re in serious trouble.
  • Oh dear God, they´ve cut my hair into a mullet. Must improve my Spanish immediately!
  • We know the steak and wine and empanadas are delicious and cheap, Holly, but you keep this up and you´ll be a gordita with a drink problem in no time. Oh, no. I just remembered dulce de leche. In everything. I am in serious trouble.
  • Should I get myself an Argentinean boyfriend? Unlikely, if previous indulgences persist.
  • Need a job. English teacher? Probably. Dog walker? Er, no. American voice-over star? Boom!
  • Current social obligations low. Current free time high. Oh, right. I should start a blog.

Thankfully, these fine life details can slowly be smoothed within the comforts of the most important discovery I´ve made here in BA thus far....my home,

Casa B
or Casa Aguilar, not sure what sticks yet

A gorgeous, warm and magical house nestled amongst the mansions and embassies and delicate cafes of Begrano, a neighborhood that would happily share high tea with the Chelseas and Sohos of the transatlantic metropolises to the north. It´s a neighborhood that infuses inspiration with just a short walk down its tree-lined streets; a daily infusion I´m finding myself becoming addicted to.

Beatriz, la mujer de la casa, is a 70-something, widowed, retired Spanish professor that opens up her home to students, young people and anyone who loves her house as much as she does. Currently residing here are, myself, Sam from Texas, Carolina from France (who came as a student 9 years ago and never left…understandably so!), Cara from Brazil, and Raul, Beatriz´s son. (It´s a big house.) Beatriz has become my tutor, my lunch companion, my friend. I´m enjoying long days chatting with B in Spanglish, tasting here dulce de leche surprises, watching the Oscars (Angelina…..que feo!), and generally learning what I can from her. She´s lived in Buenos Aires all her life, knows everyone, and for the past 30 years has created a lovely home that I am happy to now be a part of. Even if just for a short while.

If you´re concerned that I´ll soon be taking up knitting too, don´t worry. I´ve discovered Palermo Soho.

In places like Rio CafĂ©, I blissfully sip expensive maracuja caprihans, mingle with expats like Withers and Sterling (note: NOT Lords of 18th Century England, in fact, dudebros from the East Coast) and get a feel for what I call ¨the hustle¨. I´ve met some interesting characters with fascinating accounts of how they ended up here. From food delivery services, to hot sauce creators, to dove hunting resort owners, this city is filled with implants from all over the world who possess a keen entrepreneurial and ambitious spirit unlike I´ve experienced anywhere else; not necessarily competitive or aggressive, it´s more a feeling of collaboration, where everyone has got each other´s back. Ideas and projects that one would never have the prospect or money or even inspiration to develop in a city like, say, New York, can actually be achieved here. I read a great article from nymag.com from 2006, a time when the economy here was just starting to heal from its 2001 crash, featuring expats who decided to make their meager New York millions stretch exponentially by packing up and heading south- http://nymag.com/guides/changeyourlife/16047/

Sure, as ideas are hatched and businesses are created, competition will grow and the current solidarity felt amongst expats here will likely come undone. And, perhaps I am misinformed. Or, disillusioned. That, I guess, is to be determined.

For now, I am happy to capitalize on this newfound free time and can-do attitude, figure out why I´m here, and join in on the hustle.

Oh, yes. And translate my observations along the way.

Until next time...

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